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Caring for Roses

Caring for your Roses...

 

Pruning,

The main pruning of the roses shouldn't be done until the worst of the winter is over and the buds start swelling, which is usually around the end of August in our district.
Roses growing in heavy soils would be pruned harder than those in light, sandy soils, and stronger growing varieties would usually be pruned harder than slower growing ones.
hybrid-teas, polyantha and floribunda roses, reduce the plant to 3-7 strong, young shoots. These should be arranged in a rounded fashion on the plant. Shorten these branches with an angular cut just above an outward facing bud, leaving 3-5 buds on the branch.
Most rose standards that have hybrid-teas, polyanthas or floribundas growing on them should be treated in the traditional way, while also making sure that the head stays symmetrical. It is important to keep the head of a standard in check or it could snap the graft or the trunk.

1. Remove dead, old, or weak canes or canes that cross through the center (shown in red) to give the plant an open, vaselike shape.

2. Cut remaining canes by less than one-third. Cut at a 45 degree angle, just above outward-facing buds.

 

3.Climbing roses they should be chosen not only for their colour but also for their growth habit. Some of the climbing roses are very vigorous (e.g. 'Wedding Day') and are impossible to keep down to a small trellis. In general when we prune climbing roses we build them up from 2-6 branches from the base depending on how big an area they are supposed to cover.

For a start these branches are led in a fan-shaped fashion across the area. The shoots that branch off these main stems are pruned back into about 10cm long stumps. As the main stems get older and don't produce much new growth any more it pays to replace them with a young, vigorous shoot from the base. Remove all the late flowers after the frosts have turned them to mush, as the spent flowers often provide a home for some of the pests during winter. It is then time to winter-spray your roses in two week intervals, twice alternatively with Lime-sulphur and a copper spray. Both of these sprays attack dormant pests and decease and strengthen the plants immune system, while they also are nutrients to the plants. If there was rust or mildew on your roses in autumn and the leaves are still hanging there in spring, then the decease will spread right to the new growth. That's why it is also quite important to try to remove the leaves once they have fallen to the ground. When you do the spraying, be careful not to have to much drift onto your evergreen shrubs, as these sprays can have a defoliating affect on those to.